Transform Your Landscape: The 8-Step Low-Dig Method for Stunning Shrub and Flower Beds

Dreaming of a vibrant, flourishing garden but dread the thought of endless digging and back-breaking work? If you’ve got just a couple of hours, you can create a beautiful, healthy new shrub and flower bed using our innovative 8-step low-dig technique. This remarkably easy, layered approach feeds your soil from the top down, fostering a rich environment that allows your plants to thrive and grow more beautiful with each passing year. Say goodbye to weeds and hello to a truly low-maintenance, flourishing garden!

I am thrilled to share a method that makes creating a new flower bed from a neglected, weedy patch of yard incredibly simple and satisfying! Using this proven technique, you will achieve a neat, tidy, and aesthetically pleasing shrub and flower bed in just eight straightforward steps – and in significantly less time than traditional gardening methods require.

In fact, my partner Brian and I were able to completely transform the bed pictured below – an area roughly 20 by 8 feet – in a mere couple of hours one Saturday morning! This efficiency is a cornerstone of the low-dig approach, allowing you to maximize impact with minimal effort.

Beyond the quick setup, we also designed this bed for minimal upkeep, incorporating soaker hoses for efficient watering and our signature paper-and-mulch system. This combination dramatically reduces future maintenance, giving you more time to enjoy your beautiful garden rather than laboring in it.

Update: Don’t just take our word for it! Scroll to the end of this article to see incredible photos of how this entire border thrived just a few years later. The only ongoing care it required was some seasonal pruning and a yearly top-dressing of paper and compost mulch. This organic feeding system naturally enriches the soil, eliminating the need for expensive and often unnecessary chemical fertilizers.

This versatile method isn’t just for preparing a brand-new garden bed; it’s also perfect for revitalizing an existing one. If you have an older bed with established shrubs that need a refresh, simply follow the eight steps around your current plantings. You can add new shrubs and perennials to fill out the space, or just provide a boost to your existing ones.

The older plants will absolutely adore the fresh, nutrient-rich soil and protective mulch layer. They typically respond with vigorous growth and enhanced vitality, proving that it’s never too late to improve your garden’s health and appearance.

How to Prepare a Garden Bed for Planting Shrubs & Perennials with Minimal Effort

The particular flower bed we tackled for this demonstration started as one of the last remaining untamed sections of our yard. It was located along the side of our house, serving as the terminus of a much larger existing shrub and perennial border. Previously, this area housed a cyclone-fence dog run, a rather unsightly leftover from the property’s former owners. Since our beloved dog was an indoor sleeper and never tried to escape, that structure was entirely unnecessary and an aesthetic detriment.

Every time we embark on creating a new garden bed or border in our yard, we consistently employ these same eight easy steps. This reliable method performs exceptionally well, whether we’re starting with a lush expanse of grass, a dense patch of weed-filled ground like this example, or even an area populated by older, neglected shrubs that need rejuvenation. Its adaptability is one of its greatest strengths.

This planting method has delivered such remarkable success for us, resulting in thriving, beautiful beds with minimal effort, that I felt compelled to share this comprehensive tutorial. My aim is to demonstrate just how straightforward it can be to establish a truly low-maintenance, low-dig bed suitable for a diverse range of plantings—including vibrant perennials, sturdy shrubs, cheerful annuals, and even small trees. It’s about working smarter, not harder, to achieve your garden dreams.

Selecting the Right Plants for Your Low-Dig Garden Bed

Before diving into the construction, let’s discuss plant selection – a critical step in ensuring the long-term beauty and low-maintenance nature of your new bed. For the specific area we were cultivating, our criteria were clear: the plants needed to be easy-care, yet visually appealing, as this particular corner is visible from both the guest bathroom window inside our home and the adjacent gravel patio outside.

I ultimately decided to plant primarily shrubs in this corner. This choice helped connect the new bed seamlessly to the existing shrub-perennial border that wraps around our yard, while simultaneously minimizing future maintenance requirements. Shrubs generally require less attention than many perennials, making them an excellent foundation for a low-care garden.

Here are the specific shrubs and perennials we chose for this particular bed, illustrating a thoughtful mix for structure and interest:

• 3 Arborvitae: These evergreen conifers continue a visual pattern, as we have an arborvitae at each fence post along the entire length of our property, providing consistent backdrop and privacy.
• 1 Doublefile Viburnum: This beautiful shrub offers attractive flowers and berries. We were fortunate to root this from another viburnum on our property, demonstrating an excellent way to get “free” plants and expand your garden sustainably!
• 1 Variegated Pieris japonica: Adding textural and color interest, this evergreen continues a border pattern established elsewhere, where these are placed between arborvitae.
• 1 Pink Escallonia: Known for its glossy foliage and abundant pink blooms, adding a pop of color.
• 1 Hydrangea: Another success story from propagation! This hydrangea was rooted from an existing specimen on our property, offering generous summer flowers.
• 1 Perennial Foxglove: While a biennial, it readily self-seeds, acting like a perennial and providing stunning vertical flower spikes. This was also seeded from other foxgloves around the property.

When selecting your own plants, it’s always a wise strategy to include a mixture of evergreens. These provide essential structure and year-round visual interest, especially crucial during the colder months when deciduous plants have shed their leaves. Think of them as the backbone of your garden design.

Once your evergreens are established, fill in the rest of the space strategically: taller, larger shrubs should go towards the back of the bed, medium-sized shrubs and larger perennials in the middle ground, and smaller perennials or annuals along the front edge. This creates a pleasing visual hierarchy and ensures all plants get adequate sunlight.

PRO TIP: For a more cohesive and professional-looking design, it’s generally best to repeat plant varieties rather than having a disparate collection of single specimens. Repetition creates rhythm and unity within the bed and across your entire landscape. For our project, the arborvitae and Pieris japonica echoed those in our longer borders, and the viburnum and foxglove varieties were already found in other areas of our backyard, tying the new bed into the existing garden narrative.

How to Make a Flower Bed in 8 Easy Steps: The Low-Dig Method

1. Remove Persistent Perennial Weeds and Any Large Weeds.

This initial step focuses on tackling the most stubborn invaders. In our specific area, the larger weeds were surprisingly easy to pull, and there weren’t an overwhelming number of dandelions, so this part of the process moved along quickly. However, if your starting area feels truly overwhelming with aggressive perennial weeds, consider a preparatory step: use black plastic sheeting to solarize and kill the weeds about a month before you plan to plant. This passive method effectively smothers and bakes the weeds, making them much easier to rake away when you’re ready to begin. The beauty of this low-dig system is that you don’t need to stress over annual weeds or small grasses; they will be effectively suffocated and killed by the subsequent layering process.

2. Add a Two to Three-Inch Layer of Good Garden Soil.

Once the initial weeds are managed, it’s time to lay the foundation for healthy plant growth. Spread a uniform layer of high-quality garden soil, approximately two to three inches deep, across the entire area of your new bed. This provides an immediate boost of nutrients and a welcoming environment for your new plantings. If you have access to well-composted manure, mixing it into this layer is an excellent, though optional, enhancement. Even without it, this fresh soil layer makes a significant difference. We skipped this optional addition for this particular project, relying on subsequent layers for ongoing fertility.

PRO TIP: We have successfully incorporated horse manure as an initial layer in previous bed constructions. While horse manure is notoriously prone to containing weed seeds, its nutrient benefits are immense. The trick is that it’s subsequently covered by more layers of material, effectively suppressing any sprouting weed seeds from the manure itself.

3. Place the Plants, in Their Pots, Where You’d Like Them to Go.

This step is crucial for good garden design and allows for easy adjustments. Before you even think about digging, take your potted plants and arrange them directly on the prepared soil layer within your new bed. Experiment with different configurations, stepping back frequently to observe the layout from various angles (from your house, a patio, a walkway, etc.). Moving plants around in their containers is infinitely simpler and less taxing than trying to reposition them after you’ve dug holes and planted them!

While perennials often tolerate or even benefit from occasional division and can be somewhat forgiving with spacing, shrubs are generally intended to be permanent fixtures in your landscape. Therefore, it is imperative to place them where they can reach their full, natural size without requiring constant, aggressive pruning to keep them in check. Thoughtful initial placement is key to truly low-maintenance shrub care.

4. Once You’ve Decided on Where the Plants Go, Dig the Holes.

Now that your plant placement is finalized, it’s time to dig – but remember, we’re talking “low-dig”! Instead of laboriously digging out the entire bed, which is unnecessary with this method (and honestly, something we’ve never found essential), you will only dig individual holes for each plant. The key is to make these holes approximately two times wider than the plant’s container and just as deep. As you dig, mix the removed native soil with some of the good quality garden soil (and compost, if available) that you added in Step 2. This creates an enriched planting zone for the roots to establish quickly and transition smoothly into the surrounding native soil. This approach has consistently yielded excellent results for us, particularly with shrubs.

PRO TIP: Before planting, carefully inspect the root ball. If the plant has roots aggressively circling the pot, it’s essential to address this. Use your hands, a trowel, or even a knife (or a shovel for severely root-bound specimens) to gently pull apart or make several vertical cuts into the circling roots. This encourages the roots to grow outwards into the new soil rather than continuing their constricted, unhealthy pattern within the former pot shape.

5. Fill in Around the Plants with Original Soil Mixed with Good Soil, Then Water Thoroughly.

After placing your plant in its prepared hole, begin backfilling. It’s crucial to use a mix that includes both some of your original native soil and the fresh, good quality soil you introduced. This combination helps the plant’s roots acclimatize to the local soil conditions rather than creating an abrupt “wall” of different soil types that might inhibit outward root growth. Once the hole is filled, gently tamp down the soil around the base of the plant to remove any large air pockets and ensure firm contact with the roots. I often use my foot, stepping carefully around the plant, to achieve this. Finally, give each newly planted specimen a deep, thorough soaking with water. Observe the soil; if it settles significantly and sinks lower after watering, add a bit more soil to level it off.

PRO TIP: For new plantings, create a slight “water catch” basin around the base of each plant. Form a small, low-rimmed circle of soil that is slightly lower than the surrounding ground. This simple technique helps direct water directly to the plant’s roots, preventing runoff and maximizing hydration, especially during the critical establishment phase.

6. Lay a Soaker Hose or a Drip-Type System.

This step is absolutely vital for promoting plant health and achieving true low-maintenance gardening, particularly for those of us who don’t have built-in sprinkler systems. Installing a soaker hose or a drip irrigation system ensures that your plants receive deep, consistent watering directly at the root zone, minimizing water waste from evaporation and runoff. Watering deeply but less frequently is a golden rule in gardening; it encourages plants to develop deep, robust root systems, making them far more resilient to periods of drought and intense heat.

When laying your system, make sure the soaker hose or drip emitters are positioned close to the base of all your plants. It doesn’t need to completely encircle each plant unless you have plenty of hose length to spare. The goal is to deliver water efficiently where it’s most needed, fostering strong, independent plants.

7. Cover the Entire Area with Thick Layers of Newspaper or Overlapping Cardboard.

This is where the magic of “no-dig” weed suppression truly comes into play. Create a comprehensive weed barrier by covering the entire bed area with several thick layers of newspaper or overlapping sheets of cardboard. For a more detailed guide on this ingenious method, you can read more about our newspaper-and-mulching system for organic weed control here. Because we weren’t planning any immediate additional plantings in this specific bed, we opted for cardboard, which typically offers a slightly longer-lasting barrier than newspaper before breaking down.

The significant advantage of using biodegradable layers like newspaper or cardboard is that they gradually decompose over a few years, adding organic matter to the soil and improving its structure. Once these layers have broken down, the top mulch layer (which you’ll add in the next step) can then directly enrich the soil, acting as a natural fertilizer every time it rains or is watered, consistently feeding your plants from the top down.

While professional landscape fabric is an option (be warned: avoid the cheap, basic types, as they often create more maintenance headaches in the long run by allowing weeds to grow *into* them), I highly recommend sticking with organic, decomposable barriers, especially for new beds. This ensures your soil receives continuous nourishment and improves its health over time, which is far more beneficial than merely preventing weeds.

PRO TIP: Always place the paper or cardboard underneath your soaker hoses. While you could technically reverse steps 6 and 7, I find that laying the hose down first helps to hold the lightweight newspaper or cardboard in place as you work, even if you have to lift it slightly to adjust. This ensures the weed barrier is directly on the soil surface, where it’s most effective.

8. The Last Step is to Cover the Paper with a 2 to 3-Inch Layer of Compost.

This is the crowning glory of your new garden bed! Apply a generous, even layer of rich compost, two to three inches deep, over the entire area. This layer serves multiple crucial functions: it locks down the newspaper or cardboard, provides a finished, attractive look, conserves soil moisture, and most importantly, it continually enriches your soil as it slowly breaks down. If possible, gently cover your soaker hoses with this compost layer as well; it helps them blend seamlessly into the bed for a tidier appearance.

What kind of mulch? Does it have to be compost?

While there are various mulches available, I have a strong preference for using a material often labeled “garden compost” from our local landscape products company. This particular type is typically dark, almost black (in contrast to the often orange hue of bark dust), and its primary benefit is its ability to feed the soil as it decomposes. It provides a steady supply of organic matter and all the essential nutrients your shrubs and perennials will need for robust growth.

By consistently using this type of compost, I have never found it necessary to apply additional fertilizers to the flower beds and borders around our house during the twelve years we resided there. The results were consistently spectacular; our plants absolutely flourished. For visual proof, take a look at our last garden tour here to see just how lush and full these beds became.

However, it’s worth noting that if your bed is situated in a particularly shady and consistently moist area, compost can sometimes create a more hospitable environment for weeds to sprout. In such cases, after the initial year or two where the compost has done its job enriching the soil, you might consider switching to a wood chip mulch. Observe how your compost mulch performs, allow it to nourish your soil, and then adjust to a different mulch type if weed issues become a persistent problem for you.

Other suitable mulches you might consider include fir bark, fine or medium-grade wood chips, pine straw, or any other organic material that is readily available and aesthetically pleasing in your region. In hotter climates, some gardeners even opt for a rock layer as mulch, though this doesn’t offer the same soil-building benefits as organic options. If you do choose a non-compost mulch, be prepared to supplement with an annual fertilizer application to ensure your shrubs and flowers receive adequate nutrition.

Before & After of a New Shrub and Flower Bed: Witness the Transformation

To truly appreciate the power of this low-dig method, let’s revisit the starting point – our challenging, weedy eyesore area before any work began:

And now, behold the finished bed, transformed in just a few short hours of dedicated work:

And there you have it! No strenuous, heavy digging, just a few hours of enjoyable work, and our problematic, weedy area was permanently transformed into a beautiful, thriving garden space. Is that not an amazing result, demonstrating the power of smart gardening?

Flower Bed Update: Years of Flourishing Beauty!

To further illustrate the long-term success of this low-dig planting method, here are additional photos showcasing the entire border a few years after its initial creation. You can clearly see how the plants have not just survived but truly thrived. (Admittedly, I did yield to temptation and added a few more plants over time, a common gardener’s impulse!)

Now that you’ve seen how simple and effective this method is, what areas of your garden are you excited to tackle next? Get ready to transform your outdoor space with ease!

This comprehensive tutorial has been updated and expanded for clarity and detail. It was originally published in July of 2012.